彭文芳;钟周;刘文娟;

• 1:广东工业大学艺术与设计学院

摘要(Abstract)：

为提高纯棉织物的拓染效果及色牢度，对其进行壳聚糖季铵盐改性处理，以未染色纯棉织物与栀子提取色素染色纯棉织物的色差值为指标，采用单因素试验和正交试验探讨改性液质量浓度、pH值、烘干温度、烘干时间对栀子提取色素上染纯棉织物颜色特征值的影响。结果表明，改性处理最优工艺为：烘干温度100℃、烘干时间15 min、改性液质量浓度6 g/L、pH值9。在最优工艺下，拓染后改性纯棉织物具有明显的增艳和增深作用，各项色牢度指标均达到服用纺织品要求。

关键词(KeyWords)： 壳聚糖季铵盐;拓染;棉织物;天然染料;颜色特征值

Abstract:

Keywords:

基金项目(Foundation): 教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金(16YJC760046)

作者(Authors): 彭文芳;钟周;刘文娟;

DOI: 10.19333/j.mfkj.20211100105

参考文献(References)：

• [1] 石岳，蒋彦.植物拓染在服饰设计中的创新应用[J].设计，2019(8):47-49.SHI Yue,JIANG Yan.Innovative application of plant dyeing in fashion design [J].Design,2019 (8):47-49.
• [2] 尤珈，胡娅娅.植物拓染及在服装上的创新设计[J].天津纺织科技，2019(5):14-17.YOU Jia,HU Yaya.Plant dyeing and innovative design in clothing [J].Tianjin Textile Science and Technology,2019 (5):14-17.
• [3] 李萍.棉织物姜黄染色工艺应用壳聚糖季铵盐改性研究[J].天津纺织科技，2012(4):12-16.LI Ping.Study on the application of chitosan quaternary ammonium salt in turmeric dyeing of cotton fabric [J].Tianjin Textile Science and Technology,2012 (4):12-16.
• [4] 张欣，王祥荣.棉织物的壳聚糖季铵盐改性与板栗壳色素染色[J].印染助剂，2019(4):52-55.ZHANG Xin,WANG Xiangrong.Modification of cotton fabric with quaternary ammonium salt of chitosan and dyeing with chestnut shell pigment [J].Textile Auxiliaries,2019 (4):52-55.
• [5] 卜妍红，陆婷，吴虹，等.栀子化学成分及药理作用研究进展[J].安徽中医药大学学报，2020(12):89-93.BU Yanhong,LU Ting,WU Hong,et al.Research progress on chemical constituents and pharmacological effects of Gardenia [J].Journal of Anhui University of Traditional Chinese Medicine.2020(12):89-93.
• [6] 郑昊，金莹，单晓宇，等.柞叶染料对改性黏胶织物的染色研究[J].纺织科学与工程学报，2018(4):56-59.ZHENG Hao,JIN Ying,SHAN Xiaoyu,et al.Study on the dyeing of modified viscose fabrics with oak leaf dyes [J].Journal of Textile Science and Engineering,2018(4):56-59.
• [7] 车秋凌，辛梅华，李明春，等.季铵化改性壳聚糖在羊毛织物酸性染料染色中的应用[J].纺织学报，2018,39(10):86-91.CHE Qiuling,XIN Meihua,LI Mingchun,et al.Application of quaternized chitosan in acid dyeing of wool fabric [J].Journal of Textile Research,2018,39(10):86-91.
• [8] 甄莉莉，付小蓉，程坚，等.经壳聚糖季铵盐整理的羊毛织物酸性染料染色性能[J].纺织学报，2017,38(8):59-63.ZHEN Lili,FU Xiaorong,CHENG Jian,et al.Dyeing properties of wool fabric treated with quaternary ammonium salt of chitosan with acid dyes [J].Journal of Textile Research,2017,38 (8):59-63.
• [9] 范彦晓，杨立新，王传发.植物染料色牢度的研究进展[J].印染助剂，2018(12):5-9.FAN Yanxiao,YANG Lixin,WANG Chuanfa.Research progress on color fastness of vegetable dyes [J].Textile Auxiliaries,2018 (12):5-9.
• [10] 吴坚，吕丽华，叶方.天然植物染料上染改性纤维素纤维的染色机理[J].针织工业，2006(9):37-41.WU Jian,Lü Lihua,YE Fang.Dyeing mechanism of modified cellulose fiber with natural vegetable dyes [J].Knitting Industries,2006 (9):37-41.